Friday, May 22, 2009

Dun Manifestin'

A few years back while living through an enforced break in modelling, I took the chance to sit down and seriously think about what it was I was trying to achieve in this hobby. The points I have come up with I have referred to as my "manifesto" (I thought a "creedo" sounded a tad...w@nky). So, in no particular order, they are:

- Modelling an actual location adds enjoyment to me and the people seeing the layout that know the area.

The areas that really draw me as a modeller each have their own special something that gives it character; whether its the train makeup, the scenery, the operational aspects....each has an appeal that I think I would be hard pressed to put into a fictional railway. For those viewing, the recognition factor gets huge brownie points: "Hey, thats...!"

- Modelling an actual time frame makes choices easier not harder.

Cant decide what to put in / leave out? Look at the photos!

- Foreshortening distances more than 1/3 is verbotten!

Railways in the real world are long and thin, why aren't ours? And following on from that:

- Large radius points are your friend

And if you've seen a DX go around a number 4 point you'll understand what I'm talking about. Also, they just look better!

- I will choose a scene and worry about the scale to model it in second.

Funny how we decide we model in Nz120, or Sn3½ and then look for something to model. Shouldn't we be looking at what really excites us in the railway hobby, then choosing the scale that allows us to compromise the least? Modern unit trains are made for Nz120, Bucolic 1950's branches are best done in Sn3½ and single business industrial sidings are the domain of 9mm.

- I will model things how they are/were, not how I think they are/were.

Look! You've got eyes, use them! Don't guess!

- Recreating operational roles is an important part of any railway.

The most fun I ever had on an operational railway was when I took the role of a signalman/station master. All I had control of was a crossing loop and an isolating section, but trying to stop trains running into each other (when they all ran at different speeds) kept me occupied for hours. Following on from this:

- Sometimes driving isn't the best job!

I know that if I don't have a specified task on a layout rather than just running A to B, I get bored very quickly.

- I will model the spaces in between.

Sometimes the most convincing modeling is of ordinary scenes. The real world isn't jam-packed with interest every 3 feet, so I cant see why we cant model the ordinary as well.

Okay, so that's my list, and its serving me well as I start hareing off into the undergrowth to pursue modelling in Nz120. So, has anyone else done a similar thought exercise?

1 comment:

Electronic Kiwi said...

I've also decided to model a real location rather than freelance, and I guess I've been heavily influenced by the writers in Model Railroader and some of their books on design and operation. Principles like Layout Design Elements (LDE's).

Like many people I've decided to model the part of the railway that I grew up around - in my case the Kinleith Branch. I haven't locked in the period yet, but it will probably be somewhere around 2000, possibly a bit later - primarily to be more relevant to my kids.

I was initially attracted to NZ120 because I had always thought that TT would be a really good scale for modelling, you could achieve more in a given space, and the idea of a modellers co-op (Chosen Scale) had some appeal.

I had little space at the time. Now I have quite a bit of space, but I've chosen to stick with NZ120. I've since realised you don't necessarily achieve more in the same space - just different - and your comments on different scales for different "models" are right.

Anyway, now that I have the space available I'm modelling most of the more interesting bits (LDE's) of the whole branch but it will also include some of the ordinary bits between. Because of NZ120 I'm able to model a fairly good representation of a town along one wall, whereas in Sn3.5 I'd probably manage one town along two or three walls, or I'd need some pretty long walls (or small towns).