Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Convention plans 2012 pt II

Further to last weeks post, I've been kicking round some more ideas with others off list (or the underblog maybe). It really does boil down to either going for a Freemo layout using the 1/2 finished rules, or doing something a wee bit different. In Britian the 'layout in a box file' tends to be a perennial favorite for some odd reason. We have had suggestions of banana boxes (which are not that strong). With the Freemo plan would more people be interested if they could buy a precut set of bits to make a small module (lets say 450 by 900 for the moment)?

So, what does everyone think. What sort of challenge would encourage you to build a small layout. I'm talking to the vast number of lurkers that we have out there, not just the 10 or so people who regularly reply, or the handful that are already building a layout. I would even be tempted to build a smaller layout than the beast I'm currently stuck with.
(I must try to track down some examples that have worked overseas to encourage more fence sitters to build a layout)

15 comments:

Evan said...

I'm one of the lurkers and I have to say, this has brought me out of the woodwork.

The idea of contributing to a larger group layout appeals. I'm currently finishing a 32 foot long On30 layout for the exhibition in Chch this year so it would be nice to do something a little smaller after that.

I've seen some successful small modules made from foamboard, could that be an option? It's easy to get and fairly easy to work with, not to mention really light.

greg said...

As the Rt. Hon.MD alludes to, the Poms have been using "box files" to house all sorts of model layouts - the A4 size available from the red shed for $20 is 368 x 264 x 75 mm dimensionally - if you put 4 together you can have over a metre of run,including a "fiddle" yard - they are of wood, are flat,easy to carry, have a lid already supplied - worth a look.

CaptainCarbon said...

Well, hole in the ground. Personally, I would most like something that could be added to the freemo modular layout group sections, but that may defeat some of the novelty value involved.

I (like several others) frequent Micro Small Layouts for Model Railroads (http://carendt.com/) and quite like the idea of a 4ft square maximum area. That gives a reasonable amount of space to mess about with.

Perhaps an adapter section could connect the small modules to the freemo modules in some fashion.

Motorised Dandruff said...

I think an adapter section would be a good idea, bt it would hav eto be provided by the layout builder. Maybe if there were some junction modules built it would work better. The 4' max seems a bit restricting. I was riginally kicking round a 6' by 1' layout which is reasonable small, but you can fit quite a lot of railway on it, and it will still fit on a bookcase at home.

Anonymous said...

Have a look at this product as a basis for building modules on. (We have all seen them on TV!)

http://www.expol.com.au/pdfs/Expol_AUS.pdf

I have a couple of modules semi built on these lightweight but strong bases ( I think they were about $8.00 a couple of years ago from Bunnings.)

The "springy" bits on the sides should be removed.

A simple wooden frame can be "wrapped" around the module to protect the sides and ends and provide a solid "foundation" to mount the rail ends on.

sxytrain said...

If someone with those clever laser cutters could cut standard freemo style ends and send them out (at a price) then we would have any problem inter connecting any module together as participants wish. Still keen to make a combined effort layout. Remember individual modules can also be entered into the competitions as well!

MaverickNZ said...

I have been wanting to take the plunge and build a layout. The Fremo NZ120 module standard with the possiblity of combining my modules with others definately sounds good. My problem is I can't decide what area to model. I keep changing my mind. The one idea that seems to stick around is Staircase Viaduct on the Midland line so maybe I should finish the design and actually start building something.

Evan said...

gfg, those expol polystyrene things are ok I guess, but any polystyrene works equally well once it has a wooden fascia around it. Using a high density extruded foam like goldfoam is even better and it isn't that expensive. My 1800 by 900 modules are based on these at $30 a sheet. It's lovely stuff to carve scenery from too.

So is this all just supposition or is something definate going to happen? I reckon we need some leadership if it's going to work.

I would love to contribute a module to a combined effort and it would be nice to take NZ120 to a new level by doing so. So whatever happens, count me in.

CaptainCarbon said...

What are we all thinking regarding 'module' configuration? A set size and shape or a just a set maximum area or something in between? I would lean towards a freedom of shape, with just a max area, in a similar vein to freemo.

Motorised Dandruff said...

Evan, how did you cut the sides so that they were square? I've had a go with this stuff previously, but I wasn't happy with my skill levels using it.

And I'm not sure if the expanded polystyrene is up to it. it seems to my mind to be way too soft.

Anonymous said...

what is the pink stuff the americans are using ? I have a photo diorama made out of this stuff (made by weathering masta 'Tom the Mann' himself...) and it is light but very durable...

steve w.

do you 'ablen' espanol... ?

Anonymous said...

actually I would better rephrase my question, not what is the pink stuff better 'can we get the pink stuff here in NZ...' ?

steve w.

'soyisi'sauce

Andrew Hamblyn said...

Here is one FREMO site that is full of info for those interested.

http://www.fremo-net.eu/index.php?id=168&L=6

It also has a you tube clip showing their layout.

I would be keen to join in if everyone settles on some *gasp* standards.

Evan said...

I cut the goldfoam (and expanded poly) from one side, making sure the blade was vertical and then cut from the other side. If my measuring was accurate it came out near perfect. Not exactly easy to do but not impossible. The beauty of the foam is that I can trim and sand it to make fine adjustments and not have to worry about warpage. I've got 10cm wide strips along the underside edges to give more area to glue the fascia to.

You can buy it in lots of sizes too so it may be that you don't even need to cut it.

Normal expanded poly isn't so great as the primary board but if it's layered it becomes a lot more durable. I only use the high density stuff.

Goldfoam can be found here:

http://www.composite-nz.co.nz/dynamicPage.asp?pageID=21

My dad has worked with the guy who runs it so I got some boards that way. I'm not sure if they sell straight to the public but it's worth asking. Just say it's for modelmaking, apparently they do supply it to other modellers.

The pink stuff is basically the same thing (extruded styrofoam) but I've found it to be softer and less responsive to carving and more likely to warp. The blue is indentical and is avaliable from Formans insulation in town. It costs more than the goldfoam so i don't bother with it.

Anonymous said...

Some good ideas and thinking going on here, so can I suggest we shift this thread across to NZ120.org?